This is the ProTek R/C Electronic Switch. The ProTek R/C Electronic Switch is a lightweight and compact MCU controlled digital ON/OFF switch for your radio controlled model. With the push of a button this digital electronic switch eliminates the problems with intermittent contact associated with mechanical switches. This ProTek R/C Electronic Switch can be easily mounted to the transponder mount of your model or any other suitable location using double-sided tape (optional bottom covers are included).
The ProTek R/C Electronic Switch includes a LiPo mode that when selected, will auto-detect low LiPo voltage and will cut-off power from your LiPo battery to prevent over discharging. LiPo mode can be turned off if other safeguards are in place or you are using a NiMH or NiCd battery. The ProTek R/C Electronic Switch also monitors the remaining capacity and condition of the battery pack, and indicates the status with the use of LED's.
- Digitally MCU Controlled Unit
- Supports Multiple Battery Types
- Integrated LiPo Safety Mode
- LED Battery Status Indication
- Small and Lightweight Design
- Additional Bottom Cases Included
||1. NiHM/NiCD; 2. LiPo
|Low Voltage Protection
||6.2V (LiPo Mode Only)
This product was added to our catalog on November 28, 2014
Again a day or practice and didn't last ! I do not recommend this product ! Not looking for a refund or store credit - just a product I can rely on !
When I first held it in my hand I was not all that impressed for the price, but now that I have it installed I really like it. It's great to be able to see the charge of the lipo receiver battery at a glance and its much smoother to operate than a mechanical switch.
I mounted mine to the transponder mount. I used two layers of foam tape underneath and screwed it down but not all the way to accommodate the tape (leaving 1-2mm). Hopefully the cushion will make this thing last!
One star off for value - as good as it is, this switch ain't worth $40. I just finished my NT48.3 build and had to have one quick so I couldn't wait for them to go on sale, but if you are not in a hurry you should shop around. These things can't be much more than a few bucks to make and their mark up is unreal.
Over time, the nylon button cover deteriorated. A couple of weeks ago, the green 'power' light would not go out after turning off the switch. Then during my most recent race, my nitro buggy had a runaway which I thought was caused by my receiver battery since it was low voltage. But just to be safe, and since I had that weird green power light staying on at all times, I changed out the switch to my other one that I'd bought as a spare. When installing it, the switch seemed fine - no more green power light when turning it off. It seemed to function properly.
However, this past weekend during a race, with my new spare switch installed, and a newly charged receiver battery (a different one that previous) on the same old switch, I thought it odd that the power button displayed an amber light (meaning battery level sensed as low). I checked using two separate battery meters and the 7.4v Protek receiver battery was indeed at max capacity. So, I went ahead and raced.
My receiver batteries typically last all day when fully charged (two years worth of data to support it). I ran two 5 minute qualifiers, and then during my A-main right before the race started (I was in 1st place and had TQ’d), it seemed like my buggy flamed out on the pipe as my pitman was holding it because I was giving full throttle but nothing happened. However, when I was signaling to my pitman to put the buggy on the bump box to restart it he kept looking at me in confusion. I realized after this ordeal that this was because the buggy was still idling…only the receiver switch had started to malfunction and not register some of my inputs. Then, about 5 minutes into my A-Main, my buggy started cutting in and out with steering and throttle response before it got stuck at wide-open throttle and became a runaway. Luckily after pulling hard on the brake trigger multiple times, the input registered and the throttle went back to normal.
A second runaway with my second electric switch. The moral of the story is I personally do not think that these switches are any more reliable than mechanical ones. I think I’m going to go back to mechanical.
Update: 4/21/16. Switch still works on my nitro buggy and truggy, but noticed case is cracking. I had to ca the switch on the truggy. I have one layer of parma gel tape under it. I may go with two layers.
Update 9/6/16. The two layers of parma type tape seems to work.