Team Losi Racing 8IGHT-X/E 2.0 Combo Nitro/Electric 1/8 4x4 Off-Road Buggy Kit

Good build. High quality! Got 2 race days on it handles good!

Short version: This is a high quality buggy that I have a hard time recommending. It's advertised as a set that can be built for Nitro or Electric configuration, however this really seems like a Nitro buggy that has an ebuggy conversion kit included. If you're confused, read on.

Long version: For context, this is not the first kit I've assembled and I've been in this hobby for some couple of decades now. This is without a doubt, the hardest kit I've ever assembled. I recall reading somewhere that the estimated build time is three to five hours. I spent over 20 assembling this because of fitment issues on both parts included in the kit and parts that I chose to install in it, or rather was forced to change... more on that later. The gripes I have with this set vary from cosmetic, to four letter word flying fits that almost sent this thing back in it's box to maybe never be seen again. You can decide which issues are big or not.

Let's begin with this: Usually kits list clearly what you need to complete the set. Here is what the box doesn't list. These items may be a "duh" to seasoned builders, but not to everyone. Bonus, it includes a 16T pinion gear that the box says you need to purchase separately. Maybe they just want you to have an extra. Paint, Tires, CA Glue. Add these to the box. Side not, the box indicate a Tekin combo, but pictures a Hobbywing. Wow, it's the one I bought. That should be fine then. Brick battery... shortys on the box. Eh, just pick what you want. Anyway, someone who doesn't know and just buys it without asking questions will be making another trip and the LHS may be a distant drive. Might want to pick up an .050" allen wrench too while you're at it. It's the only SAE wrench you need for an otherwise all metric build. Doesn't make any sense to me either. Now on to the build. Where's that book??

Did I mention you need a scale that can measure to 100ths of a gram? Box doesn't mention that either. You'll find that in the diff assembly. The diffs assemble just like any others except that the manual instructs you to use a scale to measure exactly how much fluid to add. I have no such scale. Up to the middle of the cross pins and moving on. The front and rear shocks are slightly different colors, I hope that doesn't bother you; I can't unsee it. That's not the only problem; the instructions don't reflect the correct washer in the exploded diagram. The image illustrates a flat shim and the part number shows the actual washer. The bleeder caps are a nice touch. I'll give them that. Also, no weight requirement for the shock oil. Just fill 'em up and bleed 'em off. This next one is my favorite. Page 18 in the book The upper arm assembly indicates scale widths to build them to. The scale of the drawing is right, but the set for the rear arms is WAY wider than it should be. If you assemble to spec your back wheels will have double digit degrees of positive camber. Page 32 indicates that these problematic arms are affixed using the center holes which will add even more positive camber. Mine landed on the outer holes. Page 36 is really where this book should stop and split off into a choose your own adventure book with separate instructions for E-Buggy or Nitro. Also, these parts should be separated. Page 7 says you should only open one bag at a time during assembly. This is the part where you forget that line as you won't find all of the screws you need until you open further bags, so lay out a towel and dump your parts out. You'll be doing some hunting now. If you can't tell by now, I chose the electric flavor to build mine in, so I can't describe the nitro assembly troubles as I didn't go through them. The side guards go on on page 43, but you might want to skip to page 49 and put those straps on the battery tray now rather than trying to contort your fingers in later to get them in. You might have purchased a very popular high torque/speed servo with a modular rubber booted pig-tail plug. You'll have to trim that rubber boot off. Also, there is ZERO room for the wire to squeeze between the servo body and the mount. You have a dremel, right? It would have made too much sense to mold it with some clearance for the wire and I thought the EB48 was tight...anyway. The RX-482 receiver with the built in antenna is neat. Too bad it doesn't fit in the radio box in the upright position that the instructions prescribe since the radio box cap is too short. Just throw it in the box and grab your 472 instead since it's the only RX that you have that will fit. In addition, you'll need to put your lap counter in the radio box too since there are no mounting screws to affix it. Write that number down before you have to open the box again to find it. The hobbywing xerun 4268 motor (Hey, this is the one on the box!) will hit the body with the included 16T pinion gear installed and set to the correct gear mesh as the body doesn't allow enough clearance. To be clear, this is with the solder tabs turned to the side and not the top as the manual illustrates. The body still touches the back of the motor and doesn't sit straight as a result. The acumen is SUPER SMOOTH on this. This design is probably the nicest feeling one I've put together and has a very nice action. Good job on that. The nose of the body, however, no. That thing is going to fly off the first time it hit the track.

Okay, rant is over. I bought this one because the local track and shop recommended it over the other one on the shelf made by another company with decades in the business and (ding ding ding) they stock parts for it. This unit is priced a healthy bit over the competition and has too many headaches to deal with for me to recommend it. I really wanted to like this buggy, but I feel I could have chosen better. If I hit the track with it and the experience is THAT much better than the Tekno I replaced with it, I'll edit the review to reflect that, but at this point, I'm not impressed. There are so many things about this model that should have been better. The total lack of coverings for the engine mount and flywheel holes is a big one. One plastic mold could have cleaned that up so well and it's not there. I'm going to run it and the frustrations of assembling this thing will fade over time.