The TLR 22 4.0 kit builds on the engineering features of the 22 3.0 buggy and gives racers the ability to adapt the transmission and suspension configurations to any track condition. With a host of features included in the box, as well as a lightweight body and more, the 22 4.0 is ready to take on the competition on any track regardless of the surface.
- Two Transmission Configurations Included: Maximize performance for any surface with the two transmission options that are included. The stand-up option from the 22 3.0 kit provides the best balance for low-to-medium grip surfaces. The laydown option moves the motor about 20mm closer to the center of the chassis. Differential height can be adjusted for soil and artificial surfaces.
- Adjustable Rear Shock Location: The rear shock tower can be flipped for a forward or rearward bias. This means the GenII rear shocks can be mounted in front of the rear tower and suspension arm, or in the traditional location on the back of the arm. This is a popular tuning option for high-grip surfaces that increases forward weight bias, rear end stability, and landing ability.
- Aluminum-Plate Rear Hub: The molded-composite hub base allows a bearing to be press fit without play and minimal unspring weight. An aluminum plate is secured to the hub with an M3 screw and ball stud which is vertically adjustable. Now the ball stud is supported by aluminum from pushing or pulling out, while still threading into composite so it wonít work loose.
- Stiffezel Suspension Components: The higher glass content of Stiffezel molded composite is used in strategically placed suspension components for more consistent and stable driving. This includes the front and rear suspension arms, mud guards, stand up shock tower, and waterfall chassis braces. The result is a buggy that corners more consistently and lands with great improvement.
- Ballast Tuning Options: Optional brass ballast weighs can be mounted under the servo, under the electronics, and under the laydown transmission idler. This makes it easy to tune the static weight and weight bias for changing track conditions. When running a higher static weight, the chassis will become more neutral and easier to drive on ultra-high-grip surfaces.
- Fully Updated Ball Differential: Using all of the revised components from the 22 2.0 ball differential, the 22 4.0 diff will deliver super-smooth, long-lasting performance. Features include flattened 2nd operation outdrives, revised thrust washers, tungsten carbide diff and thrust balls, a one piece nut, and a self-centering diff gear.
- GenII 12mm Big Bore Shocks: These shocks continue to set the standard for high performance and easy maintenance. Features include X-Ring Seals, machined shock bushings, machined 2 x 1.6 and 2 x 1.7mm pistons, TiCN coated shock shafts, aluminum bleeder screw caps, hard-anodized threaded shock bodies, low-frequency springs, and spring cups that snap onto the shock shafts.
- Lightweight 7075-T6 Aluminum Chassis: The chassis has been revised to accommodate the battery mounting options for both transmission configurations. Milled pockets have been added that lighten the overall weight of the chassis. The pockets also function as mounting stations for the optional brass ballast weights (sold separately).
- Included Option Parts: The 22 4.0 kit comes loaded with optional upgrades like a milled 7075 aluminum top shaft, motor plates, rear camber block, clamping rear hexes and ball stud spacers throughout. It also includes HRC and LRC front pivots, standard and +3 rear hubs, aluminum bleeder shock caps, machined shock pistons and internals.
- 22 4.0 Lightweight Body: A low-profile body was designed for the 22 4.0 buggy that provides outstanding aerodynamic performance. Pulled from 0.7mm polycarbonate, it also has the perfect balance of light weight and durability for 2WD buggy racing.
Type: Race Kit
Length: 15.0 in (382mm)
Width: 9.8 in (250mm)
Height: 5.8 in (148mm)
Wheelbase: 11.0 in (280mm)
Weight: Varies with equipment
Is Assembly Required: Yes
Needed to Complete:
- Electronic Speed Control
- Radio System
- 48 Pitch Pinion Gear
NOTE: Complete vehicle shown for illustrative purposes only and is not included.
This product was added to our catalog on April 21, 2017
First a little background: I've been racing Losi 1/10 scale 2WD buggies since the late 80's. My first Losi was the original JRX2. I've owned and raced every 2WD version since, the good and the bad.
The build: Pretty typical of what I've come to expect from TLR over the last couple of versions. The fit and finish is pretty much top notch in my book. The instructions have become pretty sparse compared to what they used to be, with no tips or insights on how to accomplish certain tasks. If you are not an experienced driver/builder you may well find yourself scratching your head over some of the diagrams. On the shocks for instance, you may not understand at first which round looking thingy goes where as opposed to the other round looking thingy. A few one word descriptions such as hard, soft, white, black would go a long ways here, but if you have some experience it's no big deal. I did have one issue with the diff. I still haven't identified what was wrong, but I just grabbed an MIP super diff I had and used it. (I've built hundreds of diffs, never had an issue, but I suspect it was the thrust washer.)
Performance: It's become cliche, but right out of the box (using the springs and oil provided) this thing is dialed. I was really a bit skeptical because the 3.0 worked so well, but the 4.0 is definitely a step up. The one word I would use to best describe it is "planted". When landing off a large jump it just sticks and goes. The 3.0 had great steering and cornering, the 4.0 adds to that the ability to land big jumps and not hesitate for the car to settle. I was tempted to go up at least one spring rate during the build because my home track has some mega jumps, but it really works quite well out of the box (I'm sure there will be some fine tuning in the weeks to come). I did notice during the build that the new ball cups threaded unto the turnbuckles quite easily compared to the super hard 3.0 cups. But during the first trial run the left inner rear ball cup popped off and then the right one. I would strongly advise that you buy some of the 3.0 ball cups. They are a true pain to thread onto the turnbuckles, but I've never had one pop off.
So that's about it. I am truly a big fan of the 4.0 especially after my TQ and win today. It has knocked about 1 to 1.5 seconds off my lap times (typically around 31 seconds) and the stability of this car allowed me to complete both qualifiers and the main without being turn marshaled once. I highly recommend it!
So I set my 22 4.0 with the recommended carpet set up in the back of the manual and went out with it for the first time last night to the track. ... I love it. It was so smooth, consistent, and predictable that I could just concentrate on my driving. I love it
If you follow the set up sheet in the back of the manual for carpet setup while your building it, then it rocks. For carpet, you will need to buy the standard tlr black springs for the front (I.e. not the low frequency ones) and the standard yellow springs for the rear) 37.5 wt oil on front and 30wt in rear. (Neither come with the kit).
I also bought the tlr gear diff, and itís so much higher quality than what comes in the b6. (If you have both cars and get the gear diff for the tlr then you will know what I mean the moment you open the package)
Two things to keep in mind for carpet they say 17mm ride height in the rear, but it is impossible to do it. So I checked some forums and they said you can use the AE 0 spring cups from the rc10 b6 (it lowers the spring). I tried it since I had an AE B6 and it works perfect, and gave me exactly 17mm ride height in the rear.
I did get a call back from TLR development team while I was on the way to the track and they said they have a work around for it on their blog, but I didnít get a chance to check it out
I love this car though. Following the setup in the back of the manual for carpet, it rocks. And yes, it lands from jumps perfectly, without bottoming out and upsetting the chassis, even with a low ride height
Also if you run 17.5, you can put a 76 tooth spur on it with a 28t pinion. But horizon said that they have a 70t spur that can be used with the slipper, but ithe 70t only works if you use the older slipper pads. I just put the 76t (not included) with the normal slipper pads and a 28t pinion, and it worked great on my track (my local track is about 70 feet long but the infield is tight and has a few doubles right out of the corners)
I also put the front and rear anti roll bars like the set up sheet said and proline wide wedges in the front with the three rows on the outside and the Proline Prism Iím the rear (both in Z3 compound) (my carpet track is the grey carpet)
One last thing. My old rc10 b6 worked fine with the end points on my radio set at 100. But when I set up my tlr 22 4.0 according to the carpet set up sheet in the back of the manual, I could tell that I might need more steering throw before I even made it to the track. I made my first run, and it ran great but I felt I needed the wheels to turn tighter, so I set my radio end point to 105 and it was perfect.(that allowed the wheels to turn just a tad tighter and turn super sharp but consistent through the many tight chicanes, tight a turns, and other technical turns that my track has)
This is why I switched to Team Associated. Tlr got my last dollar when I waited forever for the 1/8 3.0e 4x4 buggy and 5 months later they drop the 4.0,