This is the Dynamite Mach 2 .21 SG nitro buggy engine.
Dynamite's Mach 2 series engine line ignites the industry with the .21 SG nitro engine. Known for explosive power, reliability and all-out performance, Dynamite engines are becoming the engine of choice for many RC sport racers. The 13mm turbo ported crankshaft along with the ABC 6-port piston and sleeve allow this engine to deliver superior horsepower, high torque and extreme efficiency matched only by engines at much higher price points. The Dynamite .21 SG incorporates the technology and design advances developed from the Dynamite Platinum .21 XP in a sport version. Whether you're upgrading your existing nitro vehicle or looking to build a competitive racer, look no further, the Dynamite .21 SG engine has everything you need to be successful in the backyard or on the track.
- 13mm turbo ported crankshaft
- 2-needle carburetor
- ABC 6-port piston and sleeve
- Knife edged connecting rod
- Type: 2-stroke
- Displacement: .21
- Bore: 16.27mm
- Stroke: 16.75mm
- Engine (Only) Weight: 310 g
- RPM Range: up to 33,000
- HP: 2.3
- Front Bearing Size: 7 x 19 x 6
- Rear Bearing Size: 13 x 24 x 6
- Cylinder Type: ABC
- # of Ports: 6 + 1
- Carb Type: 2-needle slide
- Crank Type: SG
This product was added to our catalog on July 3, 2009
20% will not cause this reshimmed. Mid to top in buggy is very surprising also LOUD.
for 120 bucks there isnt a motor out there than can compete. Ran these in Rc pro series, nct's, club races through out the northwest. I have seen about 20 of these at the local track and one of the only problems is the carb o ring like to go bad. Buy a spare set for 6-7 bucks. Follow break in and run medium plug and you wont be disappointed. Spare venturies and magnesium head lightened impressive. Install 2 ceramics and turbo head for under 200 bucks this thing is the loudest .21 around. Jammin pipes work extremely well. JP 1 JP 2 JP 3 JP 4 for fuel economy. My experience says i like the Jammin pipes alot more than the dynamites. Re pinching works for 1 1/2 to 3 gallons w/ the 3 He did. I just bought a .26 and oh boy A main here I am.
Dont even think of breaking in first and then replace them,from the moment the engine reaches your door-mat Change them... -//- Forgot something about the Bearings...
The rear bearing size is 13x24x6 and NOT 13x25x6 as it is written in the manual that comes with the engine.
I mean that the manual has the code (DYN6012) but mentions the wrong dimensions of the bearing (13x25x6),by insertung he above code at dynnamiterc.com u will found out that the code is OK and it stands for the (13x24x6) bearing -//- This motor is maybe the best value for money motor.
It is SH based motor...
As for parts,
It uses the same Bearings with the Mach 6,u can find top quality bearings (Boca) for 30Euros both.
As for the con rod u can find replacment part at www.dynamiterc.com
Since it's a 7port engine (6+1) u should combined it with the suitable pipe,i am qurrently using the mid-range 053 dynamite pipe with the 7.5mm venturi,the engine gets crazy at low rpm.
Finally,it's ,without a doubt, the best motor for replacment on RTR cars or even for a practise engine.
This budget motor of $120 delivers incredible power from bottom to top with Losi tune pipe RE11. I have ran in pro class with Losi 8ight 2.0 which is very consist power without needing tune up. Most guys run NovaRossi, OS, JS, and all top notch motor etc. I've carried the same speed as they do. They were pretty impressed how this Dynamite preforms at the track when does doubles or triples so easily out of the corner speed. I used ODonnell plug HOT with 30% BYRON fuel. Guys! here is tips for tune up setting: BOTTOM idle: 4 1/2 turn out, TOP idle 2 1/2 turn out (from flesh) also using 7.5mm restrictor. KEEP it runs at 230 temp and break-in 3 tanks. I used 1 gallon and its compression still strong. Then YOU enjoy the most screaming .21 coming up at the STRAIGHT AWAY at the track! Lets found out how long it will last!?! To be continue.
1. Idle screw is located on the bottom of the carb, making it almost impossible to adjust while the engine is running in the car.
2. Needle screws have low quality o rings that eventually fail from soaking up fuel, the needles will go loose, causing the tune to go out of wack as the engine vibrates the needles to a richer setting. This one gave me a massive headache. Replace the o rings with cut fuel tubing or slightly bigger o rings.
Remember to always preheat your engine for the first gallon or so. I did a few cold starts and later found the engine to have noticeably more crank/rod play.
When breaking in the engine, the stock carb settings are so far off (lean) that the engine wouldn't even stay running. It calls for HS 3 1/2 and LS 2 turns out. HS ended up at 4 1/2 and LS at 3 3/4. Once the carb was tuned in, the rest of the break in was easy and nothing out of the usual.
Roughly 5 tanks after break-in (10-12 total tanks) the carb slide became stuck at 1/2 throttle and created a near runaway condition. Upon disassembly, the area where the idle stop screw meets the slide had become burred causing the issue. Needs a new slide, body and idle stop screw.
I reached out to Horizon Hobby and asked about the warranty.
1. Their warranty on engines is basically "When you open the box it will be defect free, once you add fuel the warranty is over." This is what I was told by one of their product specialists.
2. They no longer have/make replacement parts for this engine, so even if you wanted to repair it at your cost you would have to search on ebay, etc. to find any replacement parts. Seems strange since this is one of their current offerings and doesn't show to be discontinued anywhere.
I would avoid this thing all together. Spend a little more and get yourself a NOVA.
I got this motor, pretty one, broke it in to the EB Mods method.
Raced/Practiced with it, did ok in my buggy.
Front bearing was leaky.
Bought a new one.
Now I took it apart and looked at the con rod and the hole where the wrist pin gos through was bent.
I dont wanna bash Dynamite but the price of the engine explains the quality which is a 3/10.
I got it for practice motor.
But the quality of the motor is somewhat poor.
It did pretty good against the top motors but wouldnt recommend for people who want to actually race.
And for those wanting a vid heres mine.